Posted by seiji on January 20th 2008 to
MXRants
I and two trail and desert riding buddies Stpehen Beal and Mike Brecher left Austin, TX the day after Christmas for our annual pilgrimmage to Baja. This would be our first year without our fearless and very experienced Baja leader Bill Kasson of Kasson Yamaha. Bill was suffering from the after effects of an old Baja injury to his shoulder and would have to sit this one out. This means we couldn’t mindlessly follow his memory through the remoteness that is Baja. What do guys do when knowledge is not present? They rely on machismo and technology of course. We loaded some maps into a GPS and pumped ourselves up on the drive west about how smart we were and that our manliness could overcome anything Baja could throw up at us.
We home based out of Rancho Santa Veronica and planned to head to San Felipe on the Sea of Cortez side, up and down the mountains stopping for a night at Mike’s Sky Ranch, ride the Pacific coast to The Old Mill and back to the Rancho throuh Ojos Negros. Seemed pretty straight up and we had our rugged manliness and technology on our side. It was colder than usual at the Ranch where I accidentally let our OSHA approved fire inside our “hotel” room go out and the temperature overnight inside was just shy of freezing the toilet water. Woke up cold, started out riding cold. The GPS seemed to beam our intergalactic coordinates correctly. After some killer riding around Laguna Hansen and some casual fence jumping our excitement turned into fear when a Mexican rancher pulled up in a camoflauged Bronco with his amigos in tow. We played the dumb non Spanish speaking gringo card until he blurted out in perfect English “there is a sign in English that says absolutely no trespassing, what happened?” i kept babbling in Spanish, pointing in every direction, looking confused and asking where the National Park went. Eventually we turned around and I have never seen Stepehen ride so hard. I think the recent stories of riding groups being raided, raped, and beaten by locals were making his imagination run amok which in turn caused James Stewart like speed.
After high tailing it back to the fence and perfect english warning sign, we were essentially off the route we had planned and downloaded into the GPS. Lost. After some not angry riding being completley lost, we found Ojos Negros three days early. Mike cruised through town in the lead as night fell. He went right on through, seemingly on a mission to ride the highway at night to I guessed Ensenada. I was freezing, shivering, slobbering and couldn’t see squat. I just gritted my teeth and gathered up as much grrr as I could for the long haul through the dark, cold night squinting as hard as I could to see. Mike stopped about 10 minutes up the highway wondering where Ojos was. He must have been unconscious when we went through town. We turned around, I dodged a semi by jumping off the road into a ditch but we eventually got to town and a hotel, which again was freezing inside. Crisis averted. Day one. NOT at Mike’s. At Ojos. New plan.
We headed to the Old Mill the next day, what a great day. Seeing the Pacific at the end of a long day in the saddle is pretty awesome. We had a great time there, good food, and good conversation with some great folks. The Old Mill is my favorite spot in Baja so far.
We headed up to Mike’s Sky Ranch the next day, taking a new route completley via GPS up and over the mountains. It worked perfectly and the trails were some of the best I have been lucky enough to ride. Somewhere Mikey lost all his tools. He and Stephen were on Spanish Gas Gas two strokes and my tool kit was for my Yamaha WR. If something went wrong with either of their bikes for the rest of the trip we would pretty much be hosed but we marched on. Satellites and GPS got us cleanly to Mike’s Sky Ranch where we had our usual excellent time and food.
The next day we headed down the mountain and back to Rancho Santa Veronica. It was a shorter day of riding, on some great dirt and I felt awesome. We were maybe 5 miles from then end of our ride and Stephen shot off onto a side trail. I stopped with Mikey to wait for him but he never showed up. Great. Stephen was on some trail, by himself, probably wadded up under his bike with temperatures dropping and winds picking up. We waited and waited where we thought we had the best chance of running into him. We then went back to where we last saw him and took off on gnarly single track looking for what surely now was his dead body being chewed on by buzzards and the chupecabra. We followed the freshest tracks we could see but no Stephen. We gave up and would go to the Rancho and call the authorities. On the road to the Rancho my truck was headed up toward us. Stephen. @#$%^ Stepehen had been at the Rancho the whole time. Mikey was pissed. I was miffed I had ridden those gnarly trails with visions of Stephen’s bike in the bushes with no body in sight. After getting warm and having some drinks at the Rancho, all was right with the world again.
When I get home from Baja I am grateful that there were no serious injuries and everyone involved is fine. I daydream about riding remote mountain trails and buzzing the beach on the Pacific. I mentally make plans for next year and look at pictures from the trip wanting to return as soon as possible. Reality eventually creeps into my life and I get back to the work that makes trips like this possible but when I need a lift, I just think of Baja. The riding, the scenery, my friends and the experiences in Baja carry me on until the next time. Hasta Luego Baja.
Seeing, smelling and hearing the Pacific after a long day rules.